Tasting the Past– Masgouf Grilled Fish
While I may never taste authentic Iraqi masgouf, the moist, flaky, bites of this delicious fish recipe is a flavorful compromise that I can live with.
In the telling of his youth in Baghdad of the 1940s, my father often spoke of the mighty Tigris River. It flowed directly in front of his childhood home in the upscale neighborhood of Kerrada.
One of his first memories is wandering outside the gates of his home and hearing the roar of the rushing water. When he was ten, determined to learn to swim in the fast currents of the river, he used his pocket money to hire a swimming teacher to teach him and his younger brother Naim.
Flowing into Iraq from the Taurus Mountains of Turkey, the Tigris runs (in parallel with the Euphrates River) across Iraq from north to south, into the Persian Gulf. Since ancient times, the river was an important transport route and its rich soil was a lifeline for the agricultural settlements that sat on its banks.
Every Baghdadi Jew will wistfully reminisce about the Arab fishermen and their boats that crisscrossed the Tigris. About the little islands that would sprout up in the middle of the river, serving as a perfect place to laze on a hot summer afternoon. And they will dreamily tell you about Masgouf, the aromatic barbecued fish that is the street food and national dish of Iraq that is served along the banks of the Tigris.
In her beautifully illustrated cookbook “From the Tigris to the Thames: Flavors of a Journey,” Linda Dangoor echoes many of my father’s recollections.
“The summer months were unbearably hot. During these summer months, fishermen would bring in their catch every night (usually shabbut or biz, oily river fish) and barbecue them over a brushwood fire on the banks of the river. These fires could be seen dotted all along the shores… Illuminating the night with a soft glow.
The fisherman butterflied the fish, brushed them with oil and seasoned them with herbs and spices. Then, each fish was impaled on wooden stakes … and grilled at an angle over the open fire … Iraq’s iconic dish called samak masgouf. The fish was then sold to the many passersby.”
Recently, Rachel wanted to experiment with a grilled fish filled with herbs and spices. I chose two fresh branzino, with firm shiny eyes and had them butterflied. I reveled in choosing fresh herbs — green basil and dark opal basil, garlic chives and fresh dill. After we prepared them with oil and herbs, we grilled them in my oven.
While I may never taste authentic Iraqi masgouf, the moist, flaky, bites of this delicious fish recipe is a flavorful compromise that I can live with.
—Sharon
Linda Dangoor’s delicious recipe for masgouf is placed in a baking dish and calls for curry and Aleppo pepper. Sharon and I wanted a more rustic cooking method and milder flavors.
We made a rub with olive oil and crushed garlic, paprika and turmeric and chopped dill. We rubbed it all over the inside of the fish and stuffed the fish with fresh basil, garlic chives, green onion and lemon.
We tied the fish with baker’s twine and roasted with an Anaheim pepper and more herbs on a wire tray.
The result was citrusy, herby, succulent flavor!
—Rachel
Grilled Herby Branzino
2 whole branzino, butterflied and scored on top
1/3 cup olive oil
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 Tbsp sweet paprika
1 Tbsp turmeric
1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
1 bunch dill, finely chopped
4 green onions
1 bunch basil
1 bunch dark opal basil, optional
1 bunch garlic chives, optional
1 large lemon, cut into thin circles
1 Anaheim pepper, cut in half lengthwise, optional
Baker’s twine, to tie fish
1 lemon cut into thin wedges, for garnish
Preheat oven to 400°F.
Place branzino on a wire rack with a baking tray underneath.
In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, garlic, paprika, turmeric, salt and pepper, then add the dill and mix.
Open the fish and liberally rub the dill mix all over the fish. Stuff with two green onions, some of the basil and garlic chives and top with lemon slices. Wrap the twine several times around the fish, then knot.
Repeat the process with the other fish.
Place the Anaheim pepper and some of the remaining herbs around the fish.
Bake in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes.
Serve hot.
Sharon Gomperts and Rachel Emquies Sheff have been friends since high school. The Sephardic Spice Girls project has grown from their collaboration on events for the Sephardic Educational Center in Jerusalem. Follow them
on Instagram @sephardicspicegirls and on Facebook at Sephardic Spice SEC Food
